Volunteer Project: Pattern query, "maid" costume

patternsystems

#1

Hi.

Someone had posted a rather simplistic ‘maid’ costume pattern to Wikimedia Commons, of a slightly diffferent design (namely the neck line is a gathered one) and I was wondering if there was interest from Valentina users in producing variants.

The Pattern at Wikimed Commons - https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Simone-Costume,_pattern.svg which has rather simplistic seam/hemm allowances indicated.

I was wondering if any Valentina users where in a position to “systemise” various basic ‘costume’ design forms like the archetypal ‘maid’ into “gradable” patterns that can be used more widely.

I would also be interested to hear if anyone here’s also drafted ‘work-wear’ patterns.


#2

Not sure…

Are you asking if there are any Valentina users to:

  1. use the pattern that you create, or…
  2. create this pattern without your assistance
  3. assist you in creating a group of costume patterns, or…
  4. create a group of costume patterns without your assistance

It’s all good, just not sure… ;D


#3

I was asking if someone had already made a pattern, so a combination 2 and 4.

The pattern I linked should be straightforward to tweak into a Valentina style one as it was drawn from relatively standard stating blocks.


#4

I recall drafting something from this - Leena's.com: PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site

but I can’t now recall how I tweaked it for the different sleeve design.


#5

Would you be interested in tweaking the straightforward maid pattern into Valentina math formulas? You have already evaluated the process, and the amount of time and skills it would require. Or perhaps you could start it, then ask questions here regarding how to finish it?


#6

Well I wouldn’t know where to start. Sorry. Also I can’t recall HOW i tweaked the sleeve pattern, so would probably need someone to ‘reverse engineer’ the design on commons :disappointed:


#7

Would you like to learn how to use Valentina?


#8

Obviously, But I tend to prefer print manuals over video tutorials.

(Also I am having “stablity” problems with it right nows)


#9

I am looking at one of the bodice drafts on a website. It refers to abdomen from waist measure? What this translated into in the table Valentina uses?


#10

Here is the Female basic block. Requires last development version of Valentina. Basic block women-2016.val (62.6 KB)


#11

Thank you. ( I can’t open it in the stable version, but you said as much). "The exact error being - "File Error

Exception: Invalid Version. Maximum Supported version is 0.2.4"

The version I got, from the home page seems to be 0.4.4.5 rev 9a6345a7ad45 .


#12

There are so many new fundamental features in the development version that it is a must to use the latest. You could download the development version from https://bitbucket.org/valentinateam/valentina/downloads


#13

@alex.farlie, take the opportunity to try it now. The test build is very fresh now.


#14

@Stinde

Thanks very much! Which pattern system is this block from, or is this your own?


#15

I’m have gone through several pattern making systems. I selected Mueller & Sohn system, because

  • The selection of patterns is very wide
  • It is very accurate
  • The patterns are complete
  • In the books there are also explanations of the constructions
  • Requires a limited set of measurements

I have tested several different garments and those fit 90% on the first go. Only minor tweaks required.


#16

That’s looking familiar…

On my maid patten (which has an open neck line) I would then have dropped the bodddice front neck line so it sat just above the high bust front center (about 25mm (1 inch ) above if you needed a precise figure (X1), at bust points the neck line point should be roughly in line with the bust point horizontally, and the arm pit (?) vertically (X2) . Curve through these points until you hit the shoulder line (X3). Depending on taste the beck neck line would be dropped in like manner. (X4)

The sleeve as far I could tell was a basic sleeve block, drawn in length to the widest part of the upper arm. (S1). At S1 extend lines half the bicep widest point+ a small amount of ease to S2, S3, and construct the rest of sleeve as normal.

This is where I can’t recall what next. because as I understand it you then tweak/remove the arm scye, such that a curve is formed when the sleeve is stitched into the side at X4/ X3.

The skirt is a modified (2 part) circular skirt at an appropriate depth (L1) from the waist line of the bodice… I wasn’t sure here how to work what angles should be set up so as to draft the skirt. Depending on taste L1 is either : Waist to Crotch+decency_factor.

On L1 to L1 mark the hip line, and extend half of hip_arc(front) to L2, and now draw a diagonal L,L2 extending it to the base line perpendicular L,L1 making L3.

Mark length of L, L2 verticaly from L, extending to L3. This is the bottom point of the front skirt.

The next step is I think is determine from the waist arc back to a point L4 which is the pivot for the parallel arcs which are then drawn as the top and base of the skirt. … The same is done for the back skirt with the exception that it’s a curve not an arc to accomodate the need for a slightly longer back length compared with the side seams…


#17

Hello Stinde,

Wanted t say thank you for the female bodice pattern you’ve posted! It’s taken a me a while to figure out how to compile (windows 8) to finally be able to see this pattern!

The pattern you’ve created has taken some time and work to build I’m sure! Well done.

However, Its not using the latest “standardized” vit file for measurements but uses all custom variables for measurements? I’m still learning the software so I hope I’m describing this properly. Is it possible to modify the pattern to use the standardized vit variables?

Thanks -John


#18

The pattern is made for Measurement file as well. You have to open the Table of Variables. In the Primarymeasuremements and Auxiliarymeasurements values comment field you find, what Valentina value you should use. Before changing the value you must load the vit file into to pattern with Load Individual. The you could change the values like #BH you replace the 168 with height or #HD is formula height_neck_back-height_hip. Primarymeasuremements have Valentina equivalent, but not all Auxiliarymeasurements. However the Primarymeasuremements is enough. You could adjust the pattern with the ease values in the table. The idea is that all changes you need to do are the values in the Increments not in the pattern.


#19

@Stinde, you are amazing :slight_smile: I think I need lessons


#20

@slpencer, a maid costume is one that is used repeatedly at the theater where I make costumes. I was considering entering the basic maid costume pattern discussed in this thread into valentina to see if I could do it. I intended to also write some notes on the process I use to go from a graphic drawing to a wearable pattern. I discovered ( https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Simone-Costume,_pattern.svg ) (Commons:Graphic Lab/Illustration workshop/Archive/2015 - Wikimedia Commons) that the underlying svg file appears to have been delinked. Did you perhaps capture the picture, or should I look elsewhere for a project to create into an example?