I was working on a partly intuitive approach based on the measures available in Valentina, and there nominal relationship. I hadn’t yet found a suitable ‘one-peice’ block to draft from, meaning that I was working from scratch based on what I could recall about designs I had seen. My first attempt did not look right.
I had found one for the back/front parts on a Google search but annoyingly the site it came from was a dead link so it’s numbered but no instructions(https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/bc/da/6f/bcda6f5783a36920fb12e2ec3f8c535d.jpg).
(Aside: I note that in the version of Valentina I have currently It’s not possible
apparently to have numeral digits as marker names ( I am assuming this is a limitation of the engine, and that F1, F2 etc B1, b2 can be used instead.)
There’s no sleeve pattern, but that should be straightforward to determine, based on the basic sleeve blocks, elsewhere.
My notes on basic ‘dancewear’ blocks was something like this…
(These are based on what’s normally considered Dance-wear specfic items as opposed to clothing worn for dance generally). There may be some overlap with the blocks here with those for swimwear and sports.
"One Peice Block (Front/Back) - scoop neck. ( A turtleneck would need a slightly different approach based on what I can recall, and I’ve not seen patterns for this.).
“Leggings/ Stirrup” - These would essentially be a tweaked breeches pattern, and I have some turn of the century breeches patterns I can look to for hints.
I am not currently sure what dance skirts look like, but I seem to recall that the archetypal tu-tu is essentially a short layered flared skirt. Alternatively it’s a variant on something called a skating skirt ( but I’ve not seen that term used in
(based on what I count as Dancewear, I am of course aware that in many forms of dance, what’s worn is not that different from normal street patterns.)
The lower half for a male dancer, is (typically) either tights/leggings (so breeches) pattern, or it’s a tweaked trouser/pants design IIRC.
The top part can be a
*basic T shirt-top ,
*an extension of the lower portion, forming a sleeveless one peice with legs.
- A shirt. (However, I seem to recall that dance shirts have more give/ease in the arms and a much modified waist.
There are various jacket forms used for ‘performance costumes’, but some more prominent ones I’ve seen seem to have widened shoulders, a shorter
front/back length (above the waist) . Also because of the need for waist flexibility , male jackets in dance I think may also have shorter skirts(talioring term) which are slit higher than would be comparable in a normal draft.
Catsuits/Skinsuits are pattern wise mostly unisex unless they need to be closely fitted, the female pattern naturally having to take into account the need to put in darts to accomodate a bust line. (Drafting a fully seamed catsuit is as I understood rather complex)
Some Addittional points: -
- When designing for dance/theater, you may be working with an idealised form in the design, and that measure may be specfic to the actor/performer.
- This means that a waist line might need to appear tighter then it is.
*Also, a bust line, etc…
- Certain portions of a design , like the waist, knee, elbow shoulder etc, can’t necessarily be stiffly fitted.
*Designs intended for ‘stretch’ require a grading/scaling down in the pattern so they are moderately firm on a performer ( I’ve got no idea what these factors would be to add them into a formulae though.)
- In male vs female designs, there is need to consider the front crotch/hip/thigh area carefully in close fitting designs. (This is something I had to bear in mind when I was tweaking a nominally female design into something for a ‘drag’ style costume.
- Most miniskirts are too short for a taller figure, especially if flared.
- Some designs/fabrics only have stretch or ease in a particular direction.
These are however my notes from memory, and could be wrong, hence my enquires.
I’m also bearing in mind, that for some dance/theater costume situations, I might
be drafting some really unsual combinations. (Like with a pattern for a ‘drag’ costume, I’d essentially be drafting a fuller figure female style, on male measures, with a much broader shoulder line than normal)
I was seeking comments on these so that myself (when i have the time to learn the software more fully.) and others can help create the resources that the community of users want.
I don’t have a pressing deadline for any actual draft/design, and welcome being able to help shape a design arrived at by community consensus (even if the measures would be highly individual).
The intention is that in the distant long term, Valentina has standard “free” libraries, given that most current patterns in this area proprietary (and why I was transcribing an older pattern book elsewhere.).