# Tracing existing patterns?

#1

Hey everyone,

I just got to know Valentina and it really seems to be the software I was looking for, BUT I only want to trace already existing patterns. Is there any way to do this in Valentina? Maybe using some workaround? Thanks!

#2

Hi, @noidea

Thereâ€™s none that I know about, sorry. But itâ€™s really fun creating patterns

#3

As far as I know Valentina not yet. There are plans to share patterns though.

What I donâ€™t understand is the need to trace existing patterns. What do you do with that workflow?

#4

Yes there isâ€¦ if you understand how normal grading works and follow a method I came up with.

I will provide a basic leotard pattern I recently did using this method. Letâ€™s assume weâ€™re going to use a standard 2" grade, where each quarter getâ€™s graded a total of 1/2".

What I do is trace out a pattern piece on paper, using an XY reference pointâ€¦ in the example I use the chest line and center front or back (fold). Then locating each â€śgradeâ€ť point I measure the x and y distances relative to the 0 reference point. This is pretty much how one digitizes a pattern using a large drawing tablet. Now hereâ€™s where the trick comesâ€¦ seeing as how Seamly2d does not have a normal grading method based on rules one sets up we have to have a way to set a grade rule in the formula of the points. Knowing the size of the pattern that was traced I know the chest, waist, and hip size the pattern fitsâ€¦ in the example itâ€™s a 42 chest, 34 waist, and 44 hips â€¦ I can use those measurements to know how much each grade point has to move in/out or up/dn - they way I do this is using math trick of subtracting the chestscale (1/2 the chest) from the ChestsSale measurement from the Tape fileâ€¦ multiply this by the amount the point normally moves in a 2" gradeâ€¦ and add this to the x measurement from the tracing. For EX: Take the point BC_1 - on the tracing itâ€™s 9 1/4"â€¦ the ChestScale of a size 42 is 21" , and the BC_1 point would move in/out a full 1/2" in a 2" grade. Hereâ€™s the formula for the point BC_1"

9.25+ ((@ChestScale-21)*0.5)

This is where the neat math comes into playâ€¦ lets say you want to grade up 4" or to a 46 with a ChestScale of 23":

9.25+((23-21)*.5) = 10.25"â€¦ the point will now move out the 1" for the quarter and 4" total or 2 sizes up

OR letâ€™s say we want to grade down 4" to a 38

9.25+((19-21) *.5) = 9.25+((-2) *.5) = 9.25+(-1) = 8.25â€¦ the point will now move in the 1" for the quarter and 4" total or 2 sizes down

Hereâ€™s the pattern file and 4 measurement files to play with.

Womens Leotard.val (19.5 KB)

Women_42.vit (4.2 KB)

Wolf_W_12.vit (4.2 KB)

Wolf_W_18.vit (4.2 KB)

Beth_48.vit (4.3 KB)

#5

To take an existing pattern and then by using a Tape measurement form you can create a pattern â€śmade to measureâ€ťâ€¦ like every other normal garment CAD software does. I have a ton of patterns I use at work and have to manually grade them when I need a custom sizeâ€¦ by putting them into Seamly2d I will only need an actorâ€™s/actressâ€™s measurements to customize a pattern to their size.

Alsoâ€¦ not all patterns are drafted - Like Seamly2D doesâ€¦ a lot of costumes we do are draped with muslin on a form and transferred to paper. Hereâ€™s a pattern one of my employees recently draped:

Shift Dress - Copy.val (45.7 KB)

Wolf_W_18.vit (4.2 KB)

Wolf_W_12.vit (4.2 KB)

#6

Hereâ€™s another example of a 3 button sack coat I used as a test to validate the method I used. I used a size 38 with 2" easeâ€¦ or a ChestScale of 20". I have a whole set of this pattern so I was able to check to see if the pattern was grading properly/.

Levinsohn3282.val (122.7 KB)

Wolf_36.vit (4.2 KB)

Wolf_38.vit (4.2 KB)

Wolf_48.vit (3.9 KB)

#7

That makes sense. I wasnâ€™t aware that this is called tracing And, yes, draping. I didnâ€™t do that, so I didnâ€™t come up with it

#8

If youâ€™re running from the development environment rather than a pre-built executable you can inject a couple of lines that will cause an existing SVG file to display as a wallpaper. The neat thing is that it pans and zooms with the pattern.

You still need to go through a similar process to that which @Douglas describes as you need to reverse engineer the scaleable pattern from the picture.

This is only really useful if you have patterns that youâ€™ve made previously available as SVG and know the measurements that they were made for.

Let me know if this if of interest and Iâ€™ll explain further. Nb. my C++ is not up to adding this as a proper Seamly2D feature, but anyone that knows the code could probably add this in a couple of hours.

#9

Generally itâ€™s referred to as digitizing a pattern, but essentially you are tracing around each pattern piece on a giant tablet using a special cursor mouse to enter in each of the relevant points. Along the way you define each point type - some of which are defined as grade points which then move according to a set of defined grade rules. BTWâ€¦ when you look at the size chart of a commercial pattern - that chart IS the grade rules for that pattern, and a womens will grade different than a misses, than will a petite, than will a mens, etc.

All I did was figure out a way or reverse the process to enter the X/Y of the points by using formulas based on the pattern and measurements.

At my costume shop we do bothâ€¦ Since my main background is in drafting / engineering I tend to draft patterns, where as my one employee doesnâ€™t really draft and drapes everything. I now have a way I can enter his patterns in Seamly2D and grade & print them later for different sizes. Just a noteâ€¦ something else I do - rather than drafting using a system (like what Sealmly2D does) or draping, I will draft patterns from slopers or basic blocks (usually womenâ€™s wear) by manipulating darts, moving seam lines, or slashing, etc.

Ohâ€¦ I should also point out another reason why one would want to trace or digitize a pattern (into Seamly2D.) Since a good portion of my business is dealing with period clothing, itâ€™s not uncommon that I will take a pattern off an existing (vintage) garment - either by taking the garment apart (usually if itâ€™s beyond repair) or not. When I first worked in the costume dept at the University of Buffalo as part of degree in technical theatreâ€¦ I had to take the pattern off a vintage Victorian bustle dress without harming it and then reproduce the dress for a production of La Ronde. In this case the vintage dress was chosen because it was the same size neededâ€¦ thing is - back then there were no PCâ€™s or software to make patterns with so I would have had to grade the pattern manually. LOL

#10

You mean the ones that you pay money for?

#11

That was Douglas, not me But I assume yes, he means probably the ones you have to pay for.

#12

Yesâ€¦ those ones you pay exhorbinately for. Thatâ€™s one reason Valentina / Really is not normalâ€¦ it wonâ€™t cost you an arm and leg.

#13

I use lots of old sheets in duplicating or creating a pattern from an existing piece. No matter how well.i think I created a pattern by drafting, draping, or a combination method involving lots of guessing I find sewing a fitting garment from old sheets is the only way I can be satisfied with fit and not waste a lot of beautiful expensive fabric. This was especially true when inventing a pattern for a custom wedding dress for my niece who lived 500 miles away

#14

We do mockups all the time at my shopâ€¦ years ago we bought out a drapery business and have tons of cheap fabric we useâ€¦ itâ€™s cheaper than buying muslin.

#15

Speaking of digitizing patternsâ€¦

http://www.iacde.net/20th-century-fox-selects-gerber-to-produce-replica-costumes-for-movie-the-greatest-showman/