Raglan Sleeves with Rotate and Union tools

tshirt
raglan
rotate
uniontool
movetool

#23

Hi Susan,

thanks for the advice. I thought that your first version of instructions was intended regarding the opened shoulder seam, I also found similar designs on the web. I will try the recommended instructions.


#24

Hi again,

I have tried your recommendations however I think I have to modify it. Please see the attached picture: Here is my sleeve pattern. I think when you have recommended to add ease to the bicep line, it is meant to add ease to the B2-B5 lenght. As it is calculated from the shirt pattern armscye for this method I use, I have to add some ease for that calculation. When I do that, the point B5 slides toward the point B3. Is that you recommend? If I do the above manipulations, the sleevecap (B-B2) does not shortens. (Just proportionally shorter compared to B2-B5) For my sleeve pattern drafting method, that lenght (B-B2) comes from the shirt pattern armscye height. I can shorten that if I use a different factor. The “arm_upper_circ” measurement can be seen as B15-B21 lenght onmy sleeve pattern. I do not use that measurement for calculating the height and width of sleevecap. I am still thinking and fiddling with my pattern using all the recommendations and experience I collected yet. I am working currently on patterns for skin tight garments like lycra, etc…


#25

@penumbra1984 That’s super!


#26

This method uses constraints based on an estimated measurement - distance from B to B2. The Line_B21_B22 is your check mechanism for upper arm circumference to confirm that the sleevecap has been estimated at an acceptable height.

Because B was created first, and used to create B5 and B6.

One of the areas that I’m investigating is how to adjust and rearrange the book formulas to get scalable best-fit results.


#27

Yes, it came my mind as well, to translate the formulas and instructions written for paper patterns to Valentina’s language. Eliminating as much arbitrary, random instructions as possible. For my sleeve method, the shirt pattern is drafted. Then the sleeve. For that, the sleevecap height comes from the armscye height multiplied by a factor (in my case, it was 67%, 0.67, so the sleevecap height is reduced by 33%) according what position I want for the sleeve. For near right angle, the reduction is bigger, the sleevecap is shorter, so the sleeve almost forms letter T with the shirt. When I use smaller reduction (percentual manner), the sleevecap is higher to it is more paralell with the shirt. So in this way, these are fully scalable measurements, not estimated (okay, the sleevecap height reduction by a percent is estimated, but comes from empirical experience and can be scalable). Is there any method to calculate the sleevecap height (B-B2) and width (B5-B6) from the “arm_upper_circ” measurement? Also, you have mentioned to widen the bicep line by adding ease. What factor do you recommend to calculate that ease?


#28

“Built in” – When we use actual measurements to create a bodice, then any sleeve we create using measurements from the front and back armscyes of that bodice will reflect the measurements of the actual person, thus implements a type of ‘proportional’ method of sleeve patternmaking, even without using the actual bicep circumference. Because body pieces fit together nicely for any real person, but they fit not-so-nicely for the groupings of averaged measurements which are called ‘sizes’ in the ‘standard measurements’ tables. So your sleeve should fit reasonably well for your client.

I think ‘standard measurements’ should be called ‘average measurements’. Because if you’re not average, then you can’t wear those sizes!


#29

Hello @slspencer , could you please explain all the steps of this action? What line length are you mentioning in ‘radius = Line length’; is that the line created on the previous step? Also, in order to create the arc, I need to insert which is the first and last angle, how do I know those 2? Thanks in advance.


#30

@slspencer, on April 2 you said: (and I just read it)

One of the areas that I’m investigating is how to adjust and rearrange the book formulas to get scalable best-fit results.

thank you! That helps me get past one of the barriers to finishing the tutorial work on McCunn’s pattern system. Instinctively, I try to make my patterns scalable and not depend on tables but instead on formulae. This requires some changes from the published book instructions. I think I will take a new tack and paraphase the instructions and stop trying to follow them quite so literally.


#31

HI @Amaia, I made some changes to the instructions. Please let me know if you have the answers to your questions. If you need more info please continue to ask questions.


#32

Thanks for your precious help!!


#33

I know this situation is quite old. But I’m attempting to draft a raglan sleeve pattern. I have a body block and a sleeve block. I can follow the posts above to draft a raglan similar to the one above. But for the design I’m going for I really want the sleeve to be one piece with no shoulder seam line. Is there a simple way to accomplish this?


#34

I guess the best way to go would be to make a type of bat wing sleeve. Just rotate the sleeve so that the centre line follows off the shoulder line, smooth out the underarm curve and extend the length of the sleeve to accommodate the shoulder curve. I’ll try to do it on one of my patterns in the morning to show you want I mean.

I found this in the Winifred Aldrich book - Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear: image