I recently found this software about a week or so ago and have been spending a lot of time learning all about it. I’ve never used patternmaking software, and have only been making my own patterns for the last 3 months. My latest test pattern from this actually worked out reasonably well!
I had a few questions while I continue learning. I would share my files but trust me they are nightmare material for the devs and seasoned patternmakers I am working on making a cleaner better second pattern draft.
Right now my projects are for bra making, following a few different books as needed.
- I need to make sure my curves are precise. Inner bust arc, outer bust arc, horizontal bust, wire length, apex… I am really struggling with easily making curves that are the right measurement.
It takes a lot of tweaking and adjustment to get close enough. I have seen other tutorials but most assume you are making an underarm curve with 7 points which is far more than I have to do.
For example the bottom inner cup top edge seam needs to be (InnerBustArc-1/8"). I need 90° joins at corners that join other pieces (Eg, at Apex point of both bottom inner cup seam which will match the Apex point of bottom outer cup)…
- To add to this, how the heck should I be drafting the underwire + splay, to get a reasonable approximation of the shape with the precise measurements. I feel like I’m trying to hack the matrix with all my reference lines and scooting curves all over to get the end result ok. The underwire I have has no pdf references available although I could scan and pdf the scan… But can I even use this in seamly?
My example is: 4.75" width 8.25" long 3" deep
The Shin method of drafting has you draft the underwire, then measure up something like 1/8" on the inside of the underwire, and then continue drafting using this new line. This is to accommodate the seam allowances and channeling seam. Is there an efficient way to make this happen with the software? It’s trivial with paper and pencil but not so much on a computer.
if I make a pattern piece, I can’t refer to a newer pattern pieces measurements. For example, I made bottom cups and started the top cup, then moved to making the band+cradle. The top cup needs measurements from the cradle, but I cannot refer to that newer pattern piece when I go back to the older upper cup. I know this now… but it would be good to be able to somehow have an “update” button to make the latest measurements available for older pattern pieces.
during the details and layouts phase, what is the recommended method for seam allowance, so I get the edges of pieces squared better? My first try resulted in the bottom inner and outer cup having rounded edges which gave me difficulty when sewing. I am used to making the edges straight so I can more easily see and match the 1/4" edge.