I had been trying to figure out how to do that for a while! Thanks
Hi @dllsfan, thank you for the tip on the Morris book. I managed to find it on the wayback machine and I’ve been stuck on Chapter 1 for about 3 days now Perhaps you can help me, please.
In the examples of the Divisional System, it mentions that the ‘Normal height for 46-inch bust = 66 inches.’ How do we know or determine this?
I’ve looked everywhere & either I’m just not seeing it or I’m completely dumb. Please help
Ok, I think I have it figured
I have the book and I’m wearing it out so thanks for sharing that you found it on Wayback! I’ve bookmarked it so I can save my poor book from coming apart
There are a few parts like that where I tore my hair out only to realize the answer was a few paragraphs down, so be prepared! In this case, skip right to the Summary paragraph at the end of the chapter:
Summary of the Constructional Points
(a) THE WORKING SCALE. Calculated as one-third of the breast size plus 6 inches for all sizes over a 36-inch bust. For a 36-inch bust and under the scale is equal to half the bust size.
(b) THE DEPTH OF SCYE. Calculated as one-third of the scale plus 1¾ inches.
© THE WIDTH OF THE BACK NECK. Calculated as one-sixth of the scale less ¼ inch.
(d) LENGTH OF THE FRONT BALANCE AND DEPTH. Calculated as equal to the depth of the scye plus one-twelfth of the scale.
(e) LOCATION OF THE FRONT NECK POINT FROM THE CENTRE FRONT LINE. Calculated as one-sixth of the scale.
(f) FRONT OF SCYE MEASURE. Calculated as half the scale less ¾ inch for a 36-inch bust and all sizes under. Over a 36-inch bust the calculation is one-fourth of the bust measure less ¾ inch.
(g) POSITION OF THE NECK POINT FROM THE FRONT OF THE SCYE. Calculated as one-sixth of the scale for a 36-inch bust and all sizes under. For sizes over a 36-inch bust the measure is constant at 3 inches.
There are a few modifications that you will need to make when it comes to a sloper for evening gowns, but you’ll see in the instructions when and how much to eliminate. These are the formulas (custom measurements) I use in my measurements chart to correspond:
For example, I’m over a 36" bust so my scale measurement is 1/3 of the bust plus 6 inches. All of my measurement charts for 36" bust and under are written out as (1/2*bust_circ)
Keep in mind, you will still need to do some editing based on your design, but these blocks are a great starting point. I’ve also made modifications when you get to the waist darts for the coats if you want to PM me when you get there
P.S. The Front of Scye formula they have on Wayback is different from the one I have in my book by 1/4"
Oooh, thank you very much I will definitely contact you if I get stuck again
Actually, what I’m looking at is to create a multisize table using the height and width differences. And this is the first book that I’ve found that really, really makes sense about it. So I’d like to really understand the nitty-gritty behind it all I think it would be wonderful if one can measure a persons height and bust & get most of the other measurements accordingly (Haha, wishful thinking, I guess, but here’s to hoping).
I’ve studied up on the heads theory in drawing and a bit on da Vinci’s theories trying to figure how one can incorporate it into pattern making, but it’s been an ongoing subject until now. So… Really, thank you very much