Hi there, I have spent my Christmas holiday using the software (it’s excellent), and despite reading several threads I am still a little confused about the multisize grading. I have read comments that suggest leaving the height selection the same and just using the size selection to move between sizes. Is this correct? My initial perception of the process was that ‘in sizes’ is for increments in the horizontal direction (girth) and that ‘in heights’ is for changes in the vertical increments. I then presumed that if I didn’t change the height as i changed the size at the bottom of the form, that the vertical grade would not happen. (am I wrong with this assumption?) So I suppose my question is - if i leave the height the same (at the bottom of the form) and just change the size - will the pattern grade horizontally and vertically. Also if I do change the height - what is that actually doing - is it doing something I haven’t asked it to do in my drafting ( which is quite detailed). I thank anyone who could take the time to explain all this to me and I look forward to being an active member of the forum in the future.
Hallo @sweetpea, In der Schnittkonstruktion gehst du ja auch von immer der gleichen Körpergröße aus. Ich nehme nur die Maßberechnungen die ich für die Konstruktion meiner Schnitte brauche und habe mir diese als Gleichung in meiner Maßdatei hinterlegt. Ich arbeite hauptsächlich mit Müller und Sohn und Hofenbitzer.
Hello @sweetpea, in the pattern you are always of the same height. I only take the dimension calculations that I need for the construction of my cuts and have saved them as an equation in my dimension file. I mainly work with Müller and son and Hofenbitzer.
Many many thanks for your reply. Can you tell me what changing the height does? Does it pick up a value from in the system. I will take your advice and let the height stay the same, I would just like to know what it does when it changes.
I would love to buy the Muller & Sohn Lingerie book, but it is so expensive!
Da ich damit nicht arbeite, habe ich auch keinen Vergleich. Wenn ich die Berechnung der Maße aber sehe, kann ich nichts ausmachen wo die Länge eine Auswirkung auf die Konstruktion hat. Macht für mich auch keinen Sinn.
Ja, die Bücher von Müller und Sohn sind teuer. Empfehlen kann ich aber auch sehr gut das Buch: Grundschnitte und Modellentwicklungen von Hofenbitzer.
Hi & welcome, @sweetpea,
In the beginning, I was also very confused about this Heights column and it was explained to me that it is specifically for the Russian Standard Sizes (also very expensive & I wish I had it ) for Military uniforms, mostly, where the width of a garment will change by (perhaps) 0.02cm according to the chosen height of a person. So one would enter an amount in the Base, In Heights AND In Sizes. It is a very complex and delicate calculation that really does create pattern magic, however, the rest of the world just do not use it.
Here you can read the whole conversation in this regard, when I was questioning it way back in 2017 Understanding SeamlyMe/Tape
Therefore, it is best to work purely in the Sizes column for both the height and the width measurements.
As you have probably read somewhere, Standard measurements only fit a handful of very perfectly built people in the world, so it’s best not to work with them for Bespoke patterns. However, I like to create my patterns using Multisize measurements (I sometimes cheat and put the total height of the person into the In Heights column so that I can also play with different height of people), because then I can change the size and check that my curves are behaving properly through various sizes. Once my pattern is created, I load up an Individual measurements file and check it before printing it and making the garment.
I hope this explanation will clear this up for you - it remains a very grey area, for me.
Here is also a bit from the User Manual (Wiki): https://wiki.valentinaproject.org/wiki/UserManual:Measurements#Standard_measurements
Thank you so much for explaining this so well. I like to understand how things work before my brain accepts them!
Since I don’t work with it, I have no comparison. But when I see the calculation of the dimensions, I can not make out where the length has an effect on the construction. Doesn’t make sense to me either.
Yes, Müller and Sohn’s books are expensive. But I can also very well recommend the book: Basic cuts and model developments by Hofenbitzer.
Reply: Many thanks.